Akagera's Unsung Animals

Akagera is a sizeable national park comprising a wide variety of biomes including swampland, savanna, low mountains, plains, woodland, and thicket. The area's rich biodiversity is undoubtedly down to its broad spectrum of terrain.

The park is home to four of Africa's "big-five", including buffalo, elephant, lion, and leopard. Regions encompassing dense bush allow some of these species to remain well hidden, and it's not entirely uncommon to leave the park without spotting any of the latter three.

Chances of observing the newly introduced lions aren't necessarily guaranteed, and you be surprised how easily an elephant can conceal itself when feeling unsociable. Leopard are mostly nocturnal and can be elusive as a woodpecker riding weasel when they want to be (we've all seen that photo).

But don't despair. There are plenty of fascinating animals where the odds are overwhelmingly in your favour - in terms of viewing opportunities. The list below contains mostly large mammals, with a couple of interesting reptiles for good measure. For birds, you can refer to my previous post, A Beginner's Guide to Birding in Akagera.

Consider yourself pretty unlucky if you don't see any of the following:

Hippopotamus

One of the largest animals you'll observe in Akagera, and more or less a given that you'll see plenty. Hippos spend most of their days in and around water, with the park's population frequenting mainly around the large lakes. They'll stray further inland during the cooler hours of the evening, and spend most of the night grazing before heading back toward the wetlands. The best place to find these hefty ungulates are on Hippo Beach, where you can also stop for lunch or to use the restroom.

Interesting fact: Despite their affiliation with water, hippopotamuses can't actually swim! They walk along the bottoms of lakes and rivers where they'll hold their breath for up to seven minutes!

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Cape Buffalo

The cape buffalo is without doubt the one species from the "big-five" that you'll almost certainly to spot on a day trip to Akagera. They're notoriously grumpy, with older males aka "duggaboys" being particularly bad-tempered. Males and females are similar but are easily distinguishable by looking at the horns. Where male's horns fuse together into a "boss" over the forehead, the females do not. You'll likely spot these imposing bovids in big groups consisting mainly of females and younger bulls. Older males tend to break off from the herd and spend much of their time wallowing in mud.

Interesting fact: Buffalo are probably the most dangerous and highly feared of all the big-five due to their frightening combination of bad temperament and enormous power!

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Olive Baboon

The largest of all primates found within the Akagera wilderness is the olive baboon. Also known as the anubis baboon, this old world monkey is the most wide-ranging of all baboons. One major factor toward their success is  their omnivorous and non-fussy diet. They have been recorded eating a large variety of plants, invertebrates, small mammals and birds. The olive baboon's social structure is known as an oligarchy, with troops of up to 150 individuals led by an elite group of males. Chances of spotting them are very high!

Interesting fact: Female olive baboons often form long-lasting social relationships with a male in their troop, known as a "friendship". These nonsexual friendships benefit both the male and female. The male benefits as these relationships are usually formed soon after immigrating into the troop, helping him to become socially accepted. The females benefit as the male will sometimes "babysit" for her.

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Nile Crocodile

Akagera is home to the second largest reptile on earth, surpassed only by the saltwater crocodile. Look out for these enormous prehistoric-looking beasts along the water edges of Akagera's beautiful lakes. Sexual dimorphism is prevalent, with females growing to be about 30% larger than males. Though they feed only a few times a year, Nile crocodiles are opportunistic and highly aggressive apex predators that are fully capable of taking down just about any species within their range.

Interesting fact: An unusual behaviour of this fearsome predator is its caring nature as a parent. Where most reptiles lay their eggs and move on, both Nile crocodile parents will ferociously guard their nests until the eggs hatch.

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Plains (Burchell's) Zebra

You may be surprised to learn that there are four different species of zebra! Akagera is home to the most common of all, the plains or, Burchell's zebra. This species is easily distinguishable from others because it is the only one that has stripes which join around the belly. Zebra can be found all over Akagera, but best chances of spotting them are in the northern plains. You'll likely observe them forming aggregations with other species such as topi, warthog, and impala.

Interesting fact: A typical plains zebra family consists of a male, called a stallion, several females, called mares, and their young. When male zebra reach adolescence, they break off from the herd and form bachelor groups until they are ready to take over their own harem.

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Impala

The most common and widespread of all antelope in the park, impala are pretty, medium-sized antelope that are quite hard to miss.  Males sport long, slightly spiralled horns which they used to do battle with one another over mating rights during the rutting season. Females do not possess horns and are often found in large groups with one alpha male leading his harem of up to 300! During breeding season, you'll often spot several males forming a bachelor herd.

Interesting fact: Impala communicate in several ways, but the most impressive are through olfactory methods. Males produce a scent from pre-orbital glands on their foreheads to advertise their status to rivals. Both female and male impala are also thought to produce scents from their metatarsal glands to indicate their whereabouts to disbanded herd members when evading predators.

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Masai Giraffe

Like zebra, there are four species of giraffe which have also been divided into nine subspecies! Akagera plays host to the largest in the family, the Masai giraffe. The park was not originally an area where giraffe congregated. Those that now grace the plains and savannas of Akagera are the offspring of a small group introduced in 1986 from Kenya. Giraffe live in social groups known as temporary associations, and you'll likely spot several browsing together in areas densely populated with acacia trees.

Interesting fact: A giraffe's heart can weigh up to 14 kg! A series of special one-way valves in their necks regulate blood flow to the brain. Without these valves, the blood pressure in the giraffe's head would be immense when it bends over, enough to cause brain damage.

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Warthog

Made famous by the character Pumba in the Lion King, warthog's tend to be high on most safari-goer's bucket lists. They are mostly diurnal and can be seen all over the park where they spend most of their time grazing on short grass. It's very common to see male and female warthogs together, with up to 7 piglets close by. The warthogs of Akagera tend to be quite skittish and often distance themselves from vehicles quite quickly. As they run away, you'll notice they lift their tails entirely upright which is used as a "follow me" signal for their young.

Interesting fact: In areas with large populations of predators, warthog piglets have a very high mortality rate. Females will typically give birth to 3-5 piglets with usually only one or two making it to adulthood.

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Defassa Waterbuck

One of the largest antelope species in the park and also very common and widespread. Waterbuck are so named because they are a highly water-dependent species, and are rarely spotted more than a few kilometres from any aquatic source. They also have been observed fleeing into water in order to evade predators such as lion, hyena, and leopard. Waterbuck have very distinct markings with long necks and a mainly grey/brown shaggy coat with white patch on the rear.

Interesting fact: Waterbuck take longer to mature than any other antelope species. While males become sexually active at around the age of six years, females reach maturity within two to three years. 

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Topi (Tsessebe)

The second most prevalent of all antelope species in the park, the topi, or tsessebe, is also the fastest. Both males and females have slightly angled horns with a dark brown coat and black patch that runs from the forehead all the way down their elongated snout. They are a highly sociable species and can often be observed grazing in the arid grasslands and savannas in the north of the park. During mating season, you may see males standing alone in small territories whilst waiting for females to enter their domain.

Interesting fact: Both male and female topis will often rub their heads against the ground (to spread scent from facial glands), roll around in earth, and stir up mud with their horns. They have also been observed using their hooves to smear mud over their bodies, which is thought to help rid themselves of parasites.

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Vervet Monkey

Very commonly spotted primate not just in Akagera, but all over Rwanda from the mountains of Musanze to Kigali city suburbs. These cheeky little old world monkeys definitely fit their mischievous label. They have been noted for very having human-like characteristics including hypertension, anxiety, and even alcohol dependence! Social groups can range from 10 to a whopping 70 individuals. Males are fairly easily distinguished from females for their large, electric blue scrotum!

Interesting fact: Vervets are highly intelligent creatures and are well-known for their wide-range of communication and alarm calls, specifically in regard to particular predator sightings. 

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Common Eland

The common eland is the largest antelope species in Akagera and second largest in the world (after the giant eland). Eland bulls can grow to enormous sizes and weigh up to a tonne! Both males and females have thick spiralled horns that are ridged. Due to their colossal size, they are the slowest of all antelopes but can jump to a staggering three metres high! While the common eland can be found in massive herds of up to 500, you'll most likely observe them moving in much smaller groups in Akagera.

Interesting fact: In some areas, common eland are notorious for killing lions whilst defending themselves and their young against predation. For this reason they have been nicknamed by many as "The Lion Killers".

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Other interesting species to look out for:

• Blue Monkey
• Bohor Reedbuck
• Bushbuck
• Common Duiker
• Klipspringer
• Oribi
• Roan Antelope
• Side-striped Jackal
• Sitatunga
• Spotted Hyena
• Water Monitor

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Mostly nocturnal species in Akagera:

• Caracal
• Civet
• Galagos (Bushbaby)
• Genet
• Serval

Birds of Prague

After spending the best part of two years living in the small landlocked African country of Rwanda, it's hard not to notice the wide-array of flora and fauna that surrounds me in my everyday life.

Recently, I wrote an article on some of the most commonly spotted and impressive bird species found in Rwanda's capital city, Kigali. With the country being well-renowned for its abundance of bird species, the post attracted a rather large following from both professionals in the wildlife conservation field and city dwellers.

Before moving to Rwanda, I spent four-and-a-half years living in one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, Prague. While there may not be such a large group of bird enthusiasts in the Czech capital, it was very apparent to me that Czechs are very 'outdoorsy' people who would likely take some interest in the wildlife that surrounds them in the city.

While most of us are busy joining in the rat race that seems to dominate our lives, the plethora of wildlife residing and thriving in and around the city of 100 spires tends to evade us. With that said, this article aims to draw attention to our feathered friends, and what better time to explore Prague's wild side than the turn of Spring!

Blue Tit

A common and widespread pretty little bird with blue cap, wings and tail. They also exhibit a green back, yellow underparts, white cheeks, and a black line through the eye. Much of its food is located on outer twigs and branches where it frequently hangs upside down to feed. They live in a variety of habitats but are most often spotted in parks and gardens.

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Mute Swan

One of Europe's largest birds, the Mute Swan is most commonly spotted along the banks of the Vltava river. They have a rounded head and long, graceful, S-shaped neck and pointed tail. This imposing water bird also showcases a bright orange bill with black knob at the base. They feed mostly on aquatic plants and other vegetation. A fairly silent bird (hence the name), but will make a loud hiss and other snorting sounds when angry.

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Redstart

Similar in size to the Eurasian Robin but with slimmer and longer wings and a longer tail that quivers up and down. Like many birds, they are a sexually dimorphic species with the male having more striking plumage than the female. Both have a bright-orange red tail and rump. In the spring, the male exhibits blue/grey upperparts, black face and throat, white forehead and orange breast and flanks. They're not the most easily spotted species on this list, but can be observed in parks and gardens.

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Kestrel

The first bird of prey on this list and probably the most common and widespread in Prague.  From balconies to bell towers, the Kestrel is a small raptor that has been observed nesting in many elevated spaces in the city. They are renowned for their ability to hover when hunting their prey, which includes small mammals such as shrews, mice, and voles. Males and females are similar in appearance, with the former sporting a grey head and tail.

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Bullfinch

A plump little bird with a large head, thick neck, and short black, bulbous-bill. Their cap, wings, and tail are all a glossy black in contrast to a gleaming white rump. However, their most distinguishing feature is the brightly coloured lower face and breast, with males sporting a beautiful rose pink plumage and females pinkish-grey. These birds are rather secretive and seldom seen far from cover. They are regular visitors to gardens and orchards, however.

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Great-spotted Woodpecker

Six different woodpecker species have been recorded in the city of 100 spires, with the Great-Spotted Woodpecker being one of the most common. A common resident of both urban and rural gardens, they are a medium-sized black-and-white woodpecker with dirty white underparts and crimson red feathers under its short stiff tail. The male also has a small crimson patch on the back of its head. They are most often spotted perched vertically on trees, both coniferous and deciduous.

Goldcrest

At a mere 9cm, this plucky species is Europe's smallest bird. The Goldcrest is a tiny, rather round looking species with small rounded wings and large eyes. Both the male and female have a rather dull green plumage all over with the exception of the crown patch which is bright yellow bordered by black stripes. The males yellow patch becomes an orange-red when displaying. They can be found in most parks, and mature gardens with large trees.

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Pochard

This diving duck exhibits a short neck and very round head. Another sexually dimorphic species with the male sporting a rusty red head and neck, black breast and tail contrasting against a pale grey body. The female is mostly a dull grey-brown with pale cheeks and neck. Pochards are most commonly spotted along the banks of the Vltava and are quite happy around human habitation. They can often be seen in flocks along with Mute Swans, Cormorants, and Tufted Ducks close to the Charles Bridge.

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Eurasian Jay

Probably the most conspicuous species of the crow family, the Eurasian Jay is a brightly coloured corvid that is more common and widespread than one might think. They exhibit a pinkish-fawn body, rounded head with a small pale streaked crest that can be raised in display or when they are excited, and a small black 'moustache'. Jays also possess a distinctive electric blue wing patch that is barred with black. They are essentially a woodland bird but are frequently spotted in parks, cemeteries, and mature gardens.

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Black-headed Gull

One of the noisiest birds and probably the most common and widespread of gulls in Prague. The Black-headed Gull has slim, pointed wings with obvious white stripes along the front edge. In late winter and spring, both males and females exhibit a dark chocolate brown hood behind the eye. In spring, the bill and legs are wax red but appear duller at other times. They can be spotted mostly around water bodies including the Vltava river, but will frequent in built-up areas too.

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Long-tailed Tit

One of the prettiest birds you'll find in Prague and a fairly common and widespread city dweller too. They are similar in size to the tiny Goldcrest, but their long, narrow tails make them a bit larger. Long-tailed Tits are tiny round birds with a stubby black bill. They are pinkish-brown above, pinkish-white below, with dark marks on the sides of the head and a white crown. Their small rounded wings are mostly black. They are a highly sociable species and are commonly spotted in groups around parks and gardens.

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Woodpigeon

Prague's largest pigeon and with an increasing population, the Woodpigeon has a small head, broad wings, longish tail, and bulging chest. The adult is blue-grey with white crescent on wing, black band on tail and white patch on the neck. The neck also has a green and purple sheen and the breast has a pink flush, making it one of Europe's more colourful pigeons. They can be found in just about any habitat in Prague, but prefer areas where they can roost in trees.

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Kingfisher

One of Europe's most colourful and celebrated birds, the Kingfisher is a beautiful little bird that can be highly elusive. That said, they have been spotted in Prague along the more vegetated areas of the Vltava river where they'll often perch on reeds as they look out for their next meal. These stunning birds sport a large head with a dagger like bill. The underparts and cheeks are orange with the upperparts electric blue or oily green depending on lighting. They also exhibit white throat and neck patches.

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Greenfinch

A chunky looking finch with large head, rather short, slightly forked tail and heavy looking conical bill. The male is olive-green with a brighter back and rump and bright yellow patches on the wings and tail. The female is slightly duller than the male, with less yellow and slightly streaky upperparts. They can usually be observed feeding in small groups and will often join other finches and sparrows in large communal roosts. Greenfinches are regular visitors to gardens and Prague's beautiful gardens.

Peregrine Falcon

The second raptor on the list, the Peregrine falcon is famous for being the fastest bird in the world. They can be observed mostly in flight, where they ascend high in the sky before stooping quickly to catch prey including Feral Pigeons, Black-headed Gulls, and Blackbirds. This large and powerful bird of prey has blue-grey upperparts and dark blue wings and head. The crown is black and has a conspicuous 'moustache' contrasting with white face, giving it a hooded look. They can be found almost anywhere in the city, with one pair recorded nesting on Týn cathedral at the Old Town square.

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House Sparrow

One of the most common and widespread birds in Europe but with a population declining at an alarming rate. The House Sparrow is a small plump bird with thick bill, which becomes black when breeding, and rather short legs. The males has a chestnut brown head with a grey crown, pale grey underparts, grey cheeks and a black bib. Females have streaked backs, pale underparts and cheeks, pale brown crown and often a distinct straw-coloured line above and behind the eye. They are historically associated with human habitats and use buildings as nest sites.

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Wren

Europe's joint second smallest bird (along with the Firecrest), the Wren is a very frequent visitor to gardens. Tiny, dumpy and energetic birds that are constantly on the move. They possess a long thin bill and rather large feet. Their small tails are often cocked above the back, and their short neck gives the appearance of a small brown ball. They can be spotted continuously searching for food but can be fairly inconspicuous due to their small size and dull colouring. Wrens are most frequently observed among bushes, vegetation and small crevices in tree trunks.

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Great Tit

The largest member of the tit family, the Great Tit exhibits a large black cap, collar and throat, and a black line running down the yellow breast and belly. Their cheeks are white, back is greenish, and wing are grey-blue with a single white bar. Although it sometimes occurs in small flocks an mixes with other species, it is less social than some other members of the tit family. They can be seen mostly in and around hedgerows and trees in residential gardens and parks.

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Mallard

The most common and widespread duck in Europe, the Mallard is a familiar bird to most of us. Sexes are dissimilar, with males sporting a dark green head, yellow bill, white neck ring, purple-brown breast, mainly grey body, and black curly upper tail feathers. The female is brown with darker mottling, dark crown, dark eye stripe, pale breast, orange bill and legs. Mallards are often seen in small flocks in and around the Vltava river.

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Blackbird

Slightly larger than a Starling, the Blackbird is plump with a round head and medium-length tail. The male is matt black with a bright yellow bill and ring around the eye. The female is dark brown with darker wings and tail. They tend to feed under or close to cover and can be observed turning over leaves to search for food. Blackbirds are a highly adaptable species which is why they are so common and widespread. They are primarily a woodland bird but can be frequently spotted in gardens and parks.

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Common Buzzard

Another commonly spotted raptor in and around Prague and the largest of the three raptors on the list. The Common Buzzard is a large thickset bird with wide rounded head, short neck, broad rounded wings with 'fingered' ends and a rather short, broad tail. They are most often observed in flight where they will soar and glide with head hardly extending in front of the wings. They'll frequently hang in the air, almost motionless as they look for prey.

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Green Woodpecker

The second woodpecker on the list, and along with the Great-spotted Woodpecker, the species most commonly spotted in Prague. They have heavy looking bodies, short tails, and a strong, rather long bill. Their upperparts are green-grey in colour, with dullish underparts, vivid yellow-green rump and most distinctively, a bright red rump and crown. The 'moustache' mark of the male is dull red while that of the female is black. The Green Woodpecker is renowned for its laughing 'queu, queu, queu' call. It is not uncommon to see these large woodpeckers feeding on garden lawns.

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Chaffinch

About the size of a House Sparrow, the Chaffinch is a small plump finch with medium-sized bill, slightly peaked crown, rather long wings, white shoulder-patch and a white stripe in its wing. Males and females have different plumage with the former sporting a blue-grey head, pinkish-brown breast and cheeks, and chestnut back. The females are a paler yellowish-brown. They can be found mostly in gardens and parks where they perch in trees and bushes and are generally observed feeding on the ground.

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Feral Pigeon

Not everyone's favourite and considered a pest by many. The Feral Pigeon is smaller than the Woodpigeon and can vary greatly in plumage. Actually, they vary from pure white to almost black, but include plumages that are various shades of grey and brown. Some of the feral population resemble their Rock Dove ancestors. They are a highly sociable bird that can be found among just about any human habitation from the bustling Wenceslas Square to the quieter parks in and around Prague.

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Nuthatch

This pretty little bird is about the size of a Great Tit and resembles a small woodpecker. The Nuthatch is plump with a long black pointed bill, rather large head, and short neck, short stiff tail, and short strong legs. They exhibit soft blue-grey upperparts, buff underparts, chestnut flanks, and broad black stripe running through the eye toward the back of the head. Nuthatches are a fairly elusive species but are most frequently spotted moving up and down tree trunks and branches in short jerky movements.

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Tufted Duck

Slightly smaller than a Mallard, the Tufted Duck is arguably the nicest looking of all duck species found on the Vltava river. These beautiful diving ducks have short necks, rounded heads, and relatively large, broad bill with a broad black tip. The male is glossy black with white flanks and belly and a powder blue bill. Females are more brown in colour but both sexes sport impressive golden eyes. They get their name for their long tuft of feathers on the back of their heads, which can often be seen waving around in the wind.

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Jackdaw

A fairly common resident of Prague and a small member of the highly intelligent crow family. The Jackdaw is a neat, stocky bird that is mainly black, but with a slight purple sheen on its back and head and a grey 'hood'. The grey of the males 'hood' tends to be paler than that of the female. They are usually spotted in pairs or flocks and will often join Rooks and Starlings on rooftops. They find their food mostly on the ground but will also feed on insects and other invertebrates on trees.

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Spotted Flycatcher

The Spotted Flycatcher is a summer migrant so don't waste any time looking for this species during Prague's cold, harsh winters. When these pretty little birds do arrive to central and other parts of Europe, they can be spotted in mature gardens and parks. The dark bill is long and wide, the head quite rounded and the wings and tail rather long. They have grey-brown upperparts, off-white underparts, streaks on the breast and fine streaking on the crown. They feed mainly on flying insects including larger flies and butterflies.

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Robin

One of Europe's darling birds, the Eurasian Robin is one of the most commonly spotted species in gardens and parks around Prague. This familiar bird has a body shape that varies from rotund to sleek. The upper parts are olive-brown with face, breast, and neck a bright orange-red. Robin's are very comfortable around human habitats and are notoriously fierce when protecting their chicks. On the ground, they move in a series of hops, sometimes with wings drooped.

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Magpie

The Magpie is a medium-sized member of the crow family that appears black and white with a very long, wedge-shaped tail. The crown of the head is rather flat and bill medium-sized but very powerful. The body is black with an iridescent blue-green shade to the black wings and tails. They are often seen perched on top of a bush or tree, but can sometimes be spotted on man-made structures such as pylons. On the ground they walk or hop, usually with their tails lifted above the level of the back.

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Fieldfare

One of the lesser-known bird species in Europe yet one of the most widespread. The Fieldfare is a large, plump thrush with rather long tail. They have grey heads with dark streaks on the crown, long pale-grey rump, chestnut back and wings, and black tail and flight feathers. The breast is a yellow-orange and is heavily spotted. In the winter, they can be observed feeding along hedgerows and in orchards. They will sometimes travel with, and feed alongside other thrushes and Starlings.

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Grey Wagtail

Colourful and graceful little birds with a very long tail that is constantly 'wagging'. Both sexes sport bright egg-yellow under the tail. The male has a yellow breast, blue-grey upperparts, white stripe over the eye and black throat. Females are quite similar but have pale throats. Grey Wagtails are not the easiest birds to spot and are usually seen singly or in pairs. They can be observed in most habitats, but are usually found in areas quite close to sources of water.

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Crested Tit

Another highly elusive species on this list but a great bird to observe. The Crested Tit has a brown back and pale buff underparts. Its face is off-white with a black bib, speckled forehead and crown and pointed crest. They exhibit a blackish mark through the eye and curving round the cheeks. They are active and restless feeders, constantly moving as it searches for food by hanging on tree trunks or upside down as it searches the underside of branches.

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Grey Heron

Keep your eyes peeled around the quieter areas of the Vltava river and you might just spot this large wader. Grey Herons are large, with a long neck, long legs, and dagger-like bill. Their heads are white with white centre to the black crown that ends in a long, black wispy crest. The whitish neck has rows of black marks and the back is blue-grey in colour. The Grey Heron is usually seen solitary on the ground, near shallow edges of lakes and rivers.

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Song Thrush

Along with the Blackbird, the Song Thrush is one of the most abundant thrushes in Europe and the Czech Republic.  These stocky birds have relatively short tails, medium-brown upperparts and small black spots all over a buff breast and flanks. They stand rather upright and flick their wings when excited. Song Thrushes have a far carrying musical song comprising a series of short phrases, each repeated 3-5 times. Individuals may have a repertoire of up to 100 phrases. Expect to see these vocal birds in the parks and gardens around the capital.

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Starling

One of Europe's most common and widespread species, the Starling is actually quite a pretty bird upon closer inspection. They are fairly stocky, with a pointed yellow bill that is darker during the winter months. Their feet also change from brown to pink in the spring. Their plumage is mostly black with a purple-green sheen and tiny white spots. Starlings have a rather jaunty walk and can often be observed on garden lawns where they probe for worms and other invertebrates.

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Rook

Not a particularly good-looking bird, the Rook is the last species on the list and yet another member of the crow family. They have a purplish-black plumage and bare greyish skin at the base of the bill. Their foreheads are quite flattened and they have a rather peaked crown. Feathers appear 'looser', especially at the top of the legs, giving it a 'baggy trouser' appearance. They frequent mainly around tall trees and feed mostly on the verges of roads and rubbish tips in and around Prague.

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If you're struggling to spot some of these species, one surefire way to attract garden birds such as Blue Tits, Robins, Chaffinches and Wrens is to hang up bird feeders in your outdoor spaces! There are also many other impressive bird species that can be found in and around Prague including Black Woodpeckers, Sparrowhawks, Chiffchaff and the Short-toed Treecreeper!

Special thanks to Pexels and Pixabay for some of the amazing free images used in this blog post.

Around Sri Lanka in 18 Days

A little over a year ago, I backpacked around the beautiful Asian island of Sri Lanka. Since journeying to the small country formerly known as Ceylon, I have been asked for travel advice on numerous occasions by friends and family who plan a future visit. For this reason, I felt it would be helpful to blog about my own experience with hopes that it will serve as a rough guide to travelling around Sri Lanka on a budget.

Day 1 – Arrival/ Negombo

As my plane was to arrive in Colombo in the early hours of the morning, I decided to look out for accommodation located within close proximity to the airport. After reading a number of articles on the web, it seemed pretty conclusive that the best option was to stay in the seaside town of Negombo (which is actually closer to Colombo airport than the capital itself). I booked for two nights in a quaint little guest house named Serendib – located about five minutes’ walking distance from Negombo’s vast white sand beach. Milinda, the guest house manager was incredibly helpful, assisting with booking a driver who would chauffeur me around the Cultural Triangle in the forthcoming days. I usually wouldn’t endorse a particular business on my blog, but I strongly recommend this guest house to anyone looking for somewhere to stay on their first night or two in Sri Lanka. The rooms were modest yet comfortable and each morning a delicious breakfast is freshly cooked and served to guests in the tranquil garden. It was overall excellent value for money and the perfect way to relax and enjoy my first few days in Sri Lanka. Negombo itself wasn’t the most interesting of places but does offer a wide variety of shops, bars and restaurants.

Days 2, 3 & 4 – The Cultural Triangle

Early on my second morning in Sri Lanka, I met Supun, the man who would be driving me through the Cultural Triangle which comprises an abundance of ancient cities, temples and ruins. Hiring a private driver may not exactly seem befitting of a budget traveller's guide, however, the low price of $150 for three days was a bargain considering the lack of public transport options between each attraction. To some, three days may seem like a bit of a squeeze to fit in all of the cultural triangle’s attractions, but it turned out to be just about the right amount of time to satisfy my personal objectives. It would also be worth mentioning that limited time meant I had to make a decision between visiting Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. I chose the latter due to the fact that the site is more condensed and, therefore, less time-consuming.

Supun was a friendly family man who really made my experience through the cultural triangle a pleasurable one. He had excellent knowledge of Sri Lanka’s ancient and modern history, and as a wildlife enthusiast, I was thrilled that he was able to point out a wide variety of animals during the journey. On route to Sigiriya, we first stopped off at the Avukana Buddha – a 42ft high Buddha statue that was carved from granite rock in the 5th century.  Accompanying the impressive statue are a small stupa and a Bodhi tree decorated with prayer flags. The attraction was really interesting and made for some nice photos, but due to the lack of information on-site, it required no longer than one hour.

The Bodhi tree on the site of the Avukana Buddha

At around 3 pm on the same day, I arrived at the awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Centre of Sigiriya. Referred by the locals as the 8th wonder of the world, Sigiriya is one of the most valuable historical monuments in Sri Lanka. Built by the parricidal King Kassapa I, the ruins of the ancient capital lie on the steep slopes and at the summit of the 180m high granite peak named the “Lions Rock“. The site boasts a series of ancient murals and graffiti to be marvelled at and those brave enough to the climb to the rock’s peak are rewarded with a breathtaking 360 ° panoramic view. After nearly three hours spent arduously climbing up and down the gargantuan rock in the hot April sun, I left Sigiriya and headed toward the chalet that I’d booked for the next two evenings.

I woke up early the next day and headed for Polonnaruwa – the second ancient capital after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993. Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Polonnaruwa bears witness to several civilisations including the conquering Cholas, disciples of Brahminism, and that of the Sinhalese sovereigns during the 12th and 13th centuries. The immense capital was created in the 12th century by megalomaniac sovereign Parakramabahu I and is renowned for its unusual dimensions and the special relationship of its buildings with their natural surroundings. Highlights among the many intriguing attractions include the well-preserved Polonnaruwa Vatadage, the mysterious Lankathilaka Image House, and the gigantic 180ft high Rankoth Vehera (the 4th largest stupa in Sri Lanka). It was on this sweltering hot day that I felt pleased with myself for opting to pay a little more for an air-conditioned vehicle. Exploring Polonnaruwa’s ruins along with visiting its well-presented museum was well worth the $25 USD fee, but was also quite tiring and consumed most of the day.

The Vatadage in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa

The following day, I left Sigiriya for Kandy with a few stops planned along the way. Another early start enabled me to visit yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site – The Dambulla Rock Temple. It comprises five different caves that have each been converted into shrines – all lavishly decorated with various religious paintings and artefacts. Together with the fantastic views of Sri Lanka’s forest rich lands, this attraction was somewhat of a photographer’s paradise. I spent around two hours exploring the caves before setting off toward Kandy via Nalanda Gedige – an ancient Hindu temple situated in the very centre of Sri Lanka, and Aluvihāra Rock Cave Temple – a picturesque little site filled with more Buddha statues and rather disturbing murals of demons torturing the unrighteous.

Day 5 – Kandy

After saying goodbye to Supun the previous day, I woke up in a rundown little hostel named Green Woods that lay nestled on a hillside overlooking the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary forest. Breakfast was very basic but dining on the terrace whilst listening to the forest birds’ morning chorus was an agreeable experience. The main attractions in Kandy’s centre are the picturesque Lake and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth. The golden-roofed temple houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – a tooth of the Buddha – which lies heavily guarded in a gold casket shaped like a stupa. All visitors to the temple must cover their knees before entering but for those who wish to wear shorts, shrouds are available to rent from one of the vendors located around the perimeter of the complex. To be quite honest, I felt there were many more impressive temples in Sri Lanka besides the Temple of the Sacred Tooth and was a little underwhelmed during my visit to Kandy. I’m sure that the city has plenty to offer but it just wasn’t to my personal interests. Those who enjoy a spot of shopping may find Kandy a little more interesting than I did.

Days 6, 7 & 8 – Tea Country

A trip to Sri Lanka would not be complete without a train ride through its famous tea country. Making the decision between staying in Nuwara Eliya and Ella was a difficult one, but I opted for the latter as Ella had marginally better reviews. The ride from Kandy toward either of these destinations is quite lengthy, so for a more comfortable, less stressful experience, ensure you book your seats in first class or the observation car well in advance. I arrived at Kandy train station early in the morning hoping to secure a seat in either of the cars but quickly found myself disappointed to learn there were none available. I managed to get lucky, though, as a train that would later arrive at Peradeniya Junction – a small station located just outside of Kandy – had a few spare seats in first class. I paid a small fee to get to Peradeniya via tuk-tuk, and after a few hours spent snapping shots of the photogenic little train station, I hopped aboard the train for Ella. The six-hour journey was made easy thanks to the abundance of jaw-dropping views and the quaint little colonial stations. As I arrived in Ella  I was met by Iran – the owner of Grand 39 Guest House – who transported me to my accommodation where I settled in for the evening.

The train that headed through Sri Lanka's beautiful tea country toward Ella

Early the next morning I set off to climb Ella Rock – the larger of two mountains that flank either side of the small town. Many choose to hire a guide before embarking on the two-hour (each way) hike, but I decided to make it a bit of a personal challenge by trusting my own instincts. The journey begins with a 1.5km walk along the railway track, which twists and turns through the hillside tea plantations. Shortly after leaving the tracks, a dirt track emerges leading climbers to the summit where they are rewarded for their efforts with phenomenal views of the surrounding landscape. I found this experience extremely enjoyable yet absolutely exhausting. If you plan to climb the peak then take plenty of water with you.

On my last full day in Ella,  I climbed the smaller of the two mountains – Little Adam’s Peak. The mountain is named after its big brother, the holy Adam’s Peak due to its similar shape. This hike was far easier than Ella Rock yet offered equally impressive views.

Days 8, 9 & 10 – Tissamaharama/ Yala National Park

As public transport links between Ella and Tissamahrama are limited, and it also happened to be Sinhalese New Year, I travelled to my next destination via private taxi. It was relatively inexpensive and took around two hours from the guest house in Ella to the lakeside hotel in Tissamaharama.

The town of Tissamaharama didn’t have much going on, but I had ventured here for another reason – Yala National Park. Having spent months on safaris in Africa without seeing a single leopard, I felt my growing desire to spot the elusive cat would be satisfied in a park that boasts the highest concentration of leopards in the world. The hotel owners assisted me with booking a full-day safari with a personal friend of theirs, and I set off early the next morning in the hope of spotting one of mother nature’s most beautiful creations. I was not disappointed. Throughout the day I spent on safari, I spotted two leopards, a plethora of elephants and a variety of other mammals, birds and reptiles.

The next few days I spent exploring the relatively small town of Tissamaharama and relaxing by the lakeside. Other nearby parks that may interest travellers looking to squeeze a few more excursions in around this area include Udawalawe – boasting Sri Lanka’s largest population of elephants – and Bundala, which is famous for having a diverse range of bird species.

My first ever sighting of a wild Leopard. Yala National Park has the highest concentration of wild leopards in the world.

Days 11, 12 & 13- Mirissa

I arrived at the tropical beach town of Mirissa via an extremely overcrowded bus. I had journeyed here for two reasons. Firstly, because the area is a hotspot for Blue Whales, and secondly, to relax after the many days spent climbing all manner of ruins, temples and mountains. I booked a whale watching tour with an operator that was situated on Mirissa’s white sand beach and went to bed that evening full of excitement.

A tuk-tuk picked me up early in the morning and I headed for the harbour where a large boat half filled with fellow whale watchers was waiting for me. We set off after having a few snacks and spent around 3-4 hours without spotting anything but a few albatrosses and a single flying fish. Eventually, we did spot a Blue Whale which surfaced very close to our boat. It was one of the most awe-inspiring experiences of my life but it quickly became overshadowed by the boat crew’s serious lack of consideration for the creatures’ welfare. In fact, pretty much all of the boats weren’t too fussed about harassing the whales which I felt was highly unethical. I later discovered that there is one operator named Raja & the Whales which apparently have greater respect for the whales and also use the tour as a chance to educate guests about their conservation. I cannot entirely vouch for this as I did not experience a tour with Raja & the Whales, but if like me you want to experience the euphoria of witnessing one of Earth’s greatest creations without compromising their welfare, this operator is probably your best bet. You can find out more about my Blue Whale watching in my previous blog post, A Colossal Pursuit.

The following days were spent relaxing on the beach, exploring rock pools and swimming in what was a consistently rough sea. If you are lucky, you may spot one of a wide variety of turtles species that come to Mirissa beach to lay their eggs. There is also a small turtle rescue and rehabilitation area on the beach front which is sandwiched between a handful of bars and restaurants.

Mirissa Harbour before heading out to sea to watch Blue whales

Days 14 & 15 – Unawatuna

Unawatuna was not originally in my plans, but because it was a little closer to my final destination (Colombo), and I got an amazing deal to stay at the beautiful Dutch colonial Nooit Gedacht Heritage Hotel, I decided to take a bus westward toward the vibrant little seaside town. During my stay there, I moseyed about the small touristy area and also hiked through the Rumassala Sanctuaries Jungle toward the Jungle Beach. Though the hike was very enjoyable, the beach was disappointing as it was very heavily littered. Unawatuna didn’t have too much going on, but my hotel provided the peace and tranquillity I desired before heading off to Sri Lanka’s bustling capital city.

Days 16, 17 & 18 – Colombo

The last leg of my journey entailed exploring Sri Lanka’s largest city and capital – Colombo. I arrived there via train from Galle and walked from the station to the hostel where I would spend the next two nights. After reading numerous web-based reviews on Colombo, I didn’t have any great expectations of the city and therefore most of my time was spent sampling local food and visiting some of the small attractions such as Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil – the oldest and largest Hindu temple in the city – and the Gangaramaya Buddhist temple.  The Old Dutch Hospital was also worth a look around for those interested in picking up last minute souvenirs before their departure. Perhaps there is more to Colombo than first meets the eye, but in the short time I spent there, I didn’t find too many things to occupy my time. In hindsight, I probably would have spent one less day here which could have been used to explore Anuradhapura earlier in my trip.