Jumbo Haven

Conservation Meets Ecotourism at Thailand’s Most Famous Elephant Sanctuary

Millions of tourists flock to Thailand every year to view its magnificently diverse landscapes, embrace the rich Buddhist culture, and dine on the exotic local cuisine. Itineraries also often include an elephant trek through the country’s dense rainforests or a visit to one of Thailand’s many flamboyant animal circuses. Unbeknown to many of these tourists, the animals that perform for their pleasure, have undergone many hardships in the process of their domestication – perhaps none more so than the Asian elephant.

The world’s second-largest land animal – runner-up only to the African elephant – has been an iconic symbol to the colourful kingdom formerly known as Siam for thousands of years. But much like China’s Giant Panda and the Bengal Tiger of India, Thailand’s national animal is fast becoming an endangered species.

Commonly used in warfare in earlier years, these graceful beasts have more recently been domesticated and pressed into service in the logging and tourism industries. Logging was banned in Thailand in 1989 and up until then, had been a prominent factor toward the rapid acceleration of deforestation within the country. Ironically, the working elephants contributed to the destruction of their own habitat, and in collaboration with the fact that their owners had no further practical nor profitable use for them, they were subsequently sold into the tourism and entertainment industries.

Elephants are naturally wild animals and although attacks on humans are extremely rare, necessary precautions must be taken due to their colossal size and astonishing strength. Within local communities in Thailand it is believed that to become sufficiently obedient to interact and work with humans, elephants must go through a ritual named Phajaan.

As young as four years old, the infant elephant is separated from its mother to undergo a severe, almost humiliating taming process conducted by men known as shaman. The young calf is confined into a small space and held tightly in place using constricting ropes and chains. The procedure involves physical torture including poking and prodding with sharp implements such as knives and bamboo sticks with nails embedded in the end. Other methods include food, water and sleep deprivation. The elephant must endure this until the shaman senses that it has become submissive enough to work for its owner.

Almost all of Thailand’s domesticated elephants – whether rode whilst trekking, performing tricks or street begging – must endure this gruelling ritual. It’s an unpleasant reality unbeknown to the majority of tourists who arrive in Thailand expecting an authentic encounter with wildlife.  However, there are opportunities for tourists to experience encounters with these majestic beasts that are not detrimental to their welfare.

Nestled in a remote valley amongst northern Thailand’s lush green hills lies an animal rescue and rehabilitation sanctuary named Elephant Nature Park (ENP). Located around 60 km from Thailand’s second-largest city, Chiang Mai, ENP offers its visitors a unique experience that sets it apart from many other wildlife sanctuaries. Founded in 1990 by twice awarded Thai Woman of the Year Lek Chailert, the sanctuary currently provides a retirement home to around 40 elephants rescued from the tourism and logging trades. It is also a haven for cats and dogs that were victims of the 2011 floods.

The rescued elephants at Elephant Nature Park spend most of their days roaming through the expansive park grounds with little to no human interaction.

The sanctuary’s residents are free to roam the expansive grounds, which include a long winding river and mountains densely coated in thick forest. The goal of the organisation is to provide a natural environment for previously abused elephants, along with educating visitors about ways in which they can contribute towards the conservation of the Asian elephant and its natural habitat. Elephant rides, painting, and tricks are not available at the park.

Elephants are very social animals and remain in family herds for most of their lives. ENP’s residents have come from numerous different backgrounds, each with their own distressing story – yet they have naturally bonded with one another and formed their own herds.

Jokia is a gentle 51-year-old elephant that was rescued from the logging industry and is a favorite amongst many of the park’s visitors. Before arriving at the sanctuary she was blinded by her owner after refusing to work when her newborn calf was permanently separated from her. Her owner believed that by removing her vision, she would refrain from searching for her calf and thus continue working.

Taking care of the elephants at the park would not be easy without the mahouts.

Medo was also used for logging where she gained a crippling injury to her ankle after a heavy log landed on her. The deformity prevented her from continuing in the industry and in turn, Medo was subjected to a forced breeding program which resulted in a dislocated hip and backbone. After more than twenty years of torture, she was finally rescued by Lek in 2006.

The park attempts to rehabilitate its elephants from their horrifying pasts and also acts as a veterinary practice for others not owned by the sanctuary itself. Many elephant keepers – known in Thailand as mahouts – bring their sick or injured animals for treatment that they could not otherwise afford.

A bull elephant’s breakfast

Elephant Nature Park offers its guests a variety of options when visiting the park – from the “Elephant Volunteer” package to the “Learning Elephant” day-trip. Typical activities include preparing food for the elephants before feeding some of the park’s older and mellower female tenants. Guests are led by knowledgeable and informative English speaking guides to walk freely amongst the gentle giants who are each monitored by their own personal mahout. After an appetizing buffet is presented for lunch at the open-aired, timber-built lodge, visitors are encouraged to accompany the elephants for bathing time in the shallow pebble-bedded river.

At the end of each fun-filled day, visitors tend to leave with a new sense of appreciation for wildlife and ethical tourism. The small gift shop offers them the chance to adopt an elephant and in return receive monthly updates on the chosen adoptees wellbeing and rehabilitation progress. All funds raised by the park go towards the welfare of its elephants, the restoration of the surrounding rainforest and educating the public about how they can help protect the Asian Elephant population.

Elephant Nature Park is one of the most awe-inspiring and profoundly emotional experiences available to tourists visiting Thailand. Its unique, heartwarming atmosphere helps it to exceed all visitor’s expectations and deliver an enlightening journey into the deepest roots of the Asian Elephant’s spirit.

The Tatra Bears

This article was originally published in Oko! Magazine

Think of wildlife tourism, and what is the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps you picture yourself on safari watching a herd of trumpeting elephants march across the open savannas of the Serengeti. Maybe trekking through the dense forests of the Amazon basin in hopes of spotting the highly elusive jaguar is more your cup of tea. Whatever and wherever you imagine, it probably doesn’t belong on this continent. In the Czech Republic, we tend to believe that the greatest wildernesses and creatures are half a world away. So it may come as a surprise to learn that Europe is actually home to some of the most fascinating animals to roam the planet, with some species inhabiting places located practically on our doorstep. 

Travel to Bodø or Tromsø in northern Norway and you’ll have the opportunity to witness an incredible variety of marine life, including orcas, sperm whales, humpbacks, porpoises, and even the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, the blue whale. Head southwest to the Andalusia region of Spain and you might spot ibex and flamingos, or perhaps even be lucky enough to catch a rare glimpse of one of the world’s rarest cats, the Iberian lynx.

But a little closer to home lies a real gem. The Tatras (specifically the High Tatras) occupied the top spot on Lonely Planet’s list of ten essential European destinations for 2019. Situated around 550km east of Prague, the almost mythical landscape comprises a towering realm of jagged peaks and tumbling waterfalls, with a spectacular array of flora adorning the rugged terrain and formidable beasts, including the iconic European brown bear, roaming the fertile forests.

By the end of the 20th century, hunting, deforestation and human-wildlife conflicts had caused brown bear populations to disappear from much of their original range in Europe. Conservation efforts succeeded in halting the decline and in some parts of the continent, bear populations are now recovering. Slovakia has become somewhat of a stronghold, hosting a growing population of around 1,500 bears, with around 130 residing in the Tatras National Park. This has led to a boom in wildlife tourism in the Tatras and now, spotting brown bears in their natural habitat has never been easier. Visitors also frequently observe other native species, including wild boar, deer, marmots, and the endemic and critically endangered Tatra chamois. Those with good fortune may even observe the elusive wolf, lynx, or wildcat.

The health of the ecosystem and great biodiversity in the Tatras is predominantly down to the conservation work being carried out there. One of the organisations operating in the area is the Slovak Wildlife Society (SWS) – a non-profit that focuses on the brown bear, grey wolf, and Eurasian lynx. Established in 1998, and now an active member of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Bear Specialist Group, the SWS’s work entails developing effective measures to reduce human-wildlife conflicts and fostering greater understanding and acceptance of native predators within the surrounding communities.

The increase in the number of brown bears in the area has naturally led to a rise in human-wildlife conflicts, with interactions occurring more frequently due to reasons such as poor storage of refuse. Rare cases in which bears display threatening behaviour are often sensationalised in the media, leading to a heightened sense of fear among the general public. The SWS responded to this situation by launching the B.E.A.R.S (Bear Education, Awareness, and Research in Slovakia) Project in 2003 (www.medvede.sk).

The B.E.A.R.S Project has been providing expert knowledge and assistance to locals in implementing non-lethal measures to prevent conflicts, including livestock-guarding dogs, electric fences, and bear-proof bins. Further, the scientific research carried out has provided authorities with a sound basis for effective management decisions, in addition to contributing information for educational purposes and awareness campaigns. In fact, the SWS has played a big role in introducing conservation to the community, helping to encourage children and young people to take an active interest in nature at “Bear Camps” and other outdoor activities, hosting photographic exhibitions, and organising seminars and workshops.

But the work of the SWS extends further than small community projects. Tourists venturing to this increasingly popular destination have the opportunity to book walking and biking tours where they can witness the bears and other wildlife amid the stunning scenery of the Carpathians.

Tourists are guided by locally based wildlife experts with decades of experience combining responsible ecotourism with conservation research. As specialists in large carnivores, the SWS guides provide guests with detailed insight into the lives of animals and the challenges they face. Visitors exploring the extensive forests, mountains, and meadows will learn about their ecology and the conflicts with human interests that threaten their long-term survival. Participants can even play an active role in conservation through helping with fieldwork, which includes measuring and recording the tracks of bears, wolves, and lynx; collecting samples for genetic analysis; and monitoring animals with trail cameras. 

Tours typically last six hours and cost €90 (around 2,300Kč) per person (based on two people booking a one-day tour together). The fees go directly to fund conservation and support the SWS’s continued efforts to protect wildlife and habitats from the growing pressures of development. It is the belief of the SWS that sustainable tourism can help demonstrate to local communities the value of the natural environment around them. These efforts, combined with their intensive education work, can help change the negative perception of bears and wolves from being animals that should be feared and reviled to being animals that local people can be proud of and want to preserve.

Sustainable tourism is all the rage these days, and for good reason. The industry has committed to making a smaller impact on the environment and local culture and ensuring that development is a positive experience for surrounding communities, tourist companies, and tourists themselves. By planning a trip to the nearby Tatras and booking wildlife tours with conservation groups such as the SWS, not only can you enjoy an unforgettable vacation in glorious settings, but you’ll also be doing your own small part to help conserve some of the flora and fauna that make the natural world so wondrous.

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Wildlife of the Tatras National Park

Photo by Uryadnikov Sergey / Adobe Stock

European Brown Bear (Ursus arctos arctos)

Diet: Bears are omnivorous, meaning they eat a wide variety of foods – from grass, fruit, insects, roots and bulbs of plants to carrion.

Population: Around 130 in the Tatras National Park and surrounding areas (approximately 1,500 in Slovakia).

Life Expectancy: Maximum 30 years in the wild.

Size (adult): Height 70-150cm (at shoulder) / Weight 80-350kg

The European brown bear is one of the most common subspecies of brown bear and can be found across much of Eurasia. Large territories and a secretive lifestyle make it hard to determine their exact number, but there are estimated to be around 1,500 individuals distributed mostly across the central and northern mountains of Slovakia. Besides females with young, they usually lead a solitary life, but sometimes gather to feed at seasonally abundant food sources such as fruit trees. Bears start hibernating around November and are inactive from December to February or March, so now might be your last chance to see them this year.

Photo by Dennis / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Wolf (Canis lupus lupus)

Diet: Predominantly red deer, roe deer, and wild boar. Occasionally also prey on livestock.

Population: Around 50 individuals in the Liptov region.

Life Expectancy: On average 6-8 years. Maximum 13 years.

Size (adult): Height 80-85cm / Weight 36-45kg

Native to Europe and the forest and steppe zones of the former Soviet Union, the Eurasian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf, which can also be found in North America. The population of Eurasian wolves in Slovakia is estimated at around 400 individuals, with many of the packs forced to subsist largely on livestock and refuse in areas with dense human activity. They are a highly social animal whose basic social structure consists of a mated pair and their adult offspring. Packs are typically made up of a family of five to 11 animals, but large packs with numbers exceeding 40 wolves have been recorded in some parts of the world.

Photo by JUAN CARLOS MUNOZ / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Lynx (Lynx lynx)

Diet: Mostly roe deer and brown hares, but may also take chamois, foxes, rodents, and birds. 

Population: Around 15-20 in the Tatras.

Life Expectancy: Up to 14 years

Size (adult): Height 70cm / Weight 18-30kg

The Eurasian lynx is a widely distributed medium-sized wild cat that inhabits forests up to an altitude of 5,500m in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Its range also extends to Central Asia and Siberia, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas. With an estimated global population of 10,000, approximately 200-300 Eurasian lynx prowl the mixed forests of Central and East Slovakia. These stealthy felines are incredibly secretive and their quiet nature has caused their presence in an area to go unnoticed by humans for years. 

Photo by WildMedia / Adobe Stock

Tatra Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra tatrica)

Diet: Mainly grass, herbs, and leaves in summer, plus sprouts and bark of trees as well as lichens in winter.

Population: 1,300-1,400

Life Expectancy: Up to 15-17 years

Size (adult): Height 70-80cm / Weight 25-45kg

The critically endangered Tatra chamois is a subspecies of Alpine chamois and inhabits all parts of the Tatras. They are protected by the national parks in both Poland and Slovakia. From 1999-2000, populations of these slender bovids dropped below 200 individuals, but a five-year programme initiated in 2001 to save them has since seen the species recover. Today, the population stands between 1,300 and 1,400 individuals, which are the highest numbers of Tatra chamois in recorded history. They tend to frequent alpine meadows, cliffs, and boulder fields above the treeline at 1,700m.

The Wildlife Volunteer Deliberation

Many nature enthusiasts often dream about venturing off into the great outdoors to volunteer with wild animals. The experience promises the prospective volunteer an opportunity to get up close and personal with some of the most exciting creatures on the planet, whilst contributing toward their welfare and survival. As a wildlife fanatic, I too had this ambition and began to seek out such opportunities during my time in Southern Africa.

When researching organisations that offer excursions or volunteering with wild animals, I always aim to seek out the most ethical option. I strongly believe that ethicality should take precedence over price or popularity when making a decision between organisations and that it is important to ensure that your time, money and effort are not contributing toward an immoral or corrupt cause. I generally sort between the good and bad organisations by comparing their mission, goals and practices to other foundations that I know to be honourable and trustworthy.

Last summer, I decided to sign up for a wildlife volunteering program that took place in the Mapungubwe area of South Africa. I conducted all of the research that I typically would on any other organisation and felt satisfied that I had opted to go with a credible institution. Unfortunately, I was terribly mistaken.

Before revealing the tasks that volunteers participated in, I feel it is worth mentioning that the organisation I chose to go with were reluctant to inform potential volunteers that trophy hunting was permitted on the very reserve they operated on. There was absolutely no mention of it on their website nor when I spoke to the volunteer coordinator over the phone. In addition, upon arrival, we were informed that the reserve was owned by a large diamond mining company that has long been under the human rights microscope due to its history of unethical practices. In fact, the reserve lay adjacent to the largest diamond producing mine in the country.

The moment that I became aware of these flabbergasting facts, I immediately reported my discontent to the facilitators. It was only then that I was informed that the reserve had only recently fallen under new management, and that trophy hunting had only been permitted a few months prior to my arrival. It astonished me to know that the organisation were still content with taking honest animal-loving volunteers money in return for what turned out to be an extremely ironical and quite frankly, absurd program.

During the time that I spent on the reserve, I participated mainly in road clearing, cleaning the dilapidated camp and trying to track a lion that had clearly abandoned the reserve – and with good reason. I might add that when trying to locate this phantom lion, only one individual was responsible for operating the tracking equipment whilst eight to ten other volunteers were left twiddling their thumbs. I couldn’t help but feel my time, money and effort could all have been put to better use elsewhere. I remedied my disastrous situation by reducing the initial six weeks that I had intended to spend volunteering there, down to three. I had wanted to leave earlier but for the fact that the reserve was located in a very remote area and I had nowhere else to stay. Changing the dates of my outbound flights also proved to be tricky.

I realise that the predicament I found myself in last summer was an extreme case, but I still cannot help feeling that there must be other organisations offering wildlife volunteering that are hiding similar dirty little secrets.

A short while before my volunteering experience in Mapungubwe,  I had spent two months living on a game reserve where I trained to become a certified FGASA field guide. The same reserve also ran a respectable conservation experience program that included activities such as erosion and bush encroachment control, eliminating alien plant species, fence repair, monitoring and recording data on wildlife, road clearing, telemetry tracking, setting camera traps, veterinary care, and game capture.

While I don’t doubt that most of these undertakings have had a positive impact toward the welfare of the reserve's inhabitants, I feel that there are some where volunteers actually become more of a hindrance than a help. For example, game capture by volunteers often results in injuries to both animals and themselves. Over enthusiastic amateurs who participate in veterinary care can sometimes compromise the wellbeing of a sick animal. In my opinion, the activities which contributed greatest toward the welfare of the animals were those that did not involve working directly with them. However, I can appreciate that it would be almost impossible to lure do-gooders from halfway across the globe without the promise of a few close encounters with wild animals. A good volunteering program will get the balance right, and this organisation had it spot on.

In conclusion, it is imperative to thoroughly research the organisation in question before embarking on an expensive volunteering program. Browsing the organisation’s website alone will not necessarily give you a clear insight into their true objectives and therefore it is a good idea to contact previous volunteers and seek out the opinions of foundations that you already trust. It is also important to ask yourself about the reasons behind your desire to volunteer. Do you want to work with animals or for animals? In my experience, the best volunteers are those who understand that wild animals are better off having as little direct contact with humans as possible. If you are not prepared to spend the vast majority of time partaking in activities such as bush clearing, then wildlife volunteering probably isn’t for you.

Those who choose to volunteer for the sole purpose of experiencing close encounters with wild animals should instead opt for an ethical safari and leave the labouring to the professionals. In many cases, a reasonable sum of your money will go toward maintaining the reserve, as it would have if you had volunteered.  If you still wish to volunteer directly with animals then I urge you to do so at a local animal rescue centre, where I believe your efforts would be considerably more helpful. The most effective means of contributing toward the welfare of undomesticated animals is by signing relative petitions, joining peaceful public awareness campaigns and supporting worthy organisations such as Born Free, iWorry, and Panthera.