The Tatra Bears

This article was originally published in Oko! Magazine

Think of wildlife tourism, and what is the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps you picture yourself on safari watching a herd of trumpeting elephants march across the open savannas of the Serengeti. Maybe trekking through the dense forests of the Amazon basin in hopes of spotting the highly elusive jaguar is more your cup of tea. Whatever and wherever you imagine, it probably doesn’t belong on this continent. In the Czech Republic, we tend to believe that the greatest wildernesses and creatures are half a world away. So it may come as a surprise to learn that Europe is actually home to some of the most fascinating animals to roam the planet, with some species inhabiting places located practically on our doorstep. 

Travel to Bodø or Tromsø in northern Norway and you’ll have the opportunity to witness an incredible variety of marine life, including orcas, sperm whales, humpbacks, porpoises, and even the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, the blue whale. Head southwest to the Andalusia region of Spain and you might spot ibex and flamingos, or perhaps even be lucky enough to catch a rare glimpse of one of the world’s rarest cats, the Iberian lynx.

But a little closer to home lies a real gem. The Tatras (specifically the High Tatras) occupied the top spot on Lonely Planet’s list of ten essential European destinations for 2019. Situated around 550km east of Prague, the almost mythical landscape comprises a towering realm of jagged peaks and tumbling waterfalls, with a spectacular array of flora adorning the rugged terrain and formidable beasts, including the iconic European brown bear, roaming the fertile forests.

By the end of the 20th century, hunting, deforestation and human-wildlife conflicts had caused brown bear populations to disappear from much of their original range in Europe. Conservation efforts succeeded in halting the decline and in some parts of the continent, bear populations are now recovering. Slovakia has become somewhat of a stronghold, hosting a growing population of around 1,500 bears, with around 130 residing in the Tatras National Park. This has led to a boom in wildlife tourism in the Tatras and now, spotting brown bears in their natural habitat has never been easier. Visitors also frequently observe other native species, including wild boar, deer, marmots, and the endemic and critically endangered Tatra chamois. Those with good fortune may even observe the elusive wolf, lynx, or wildcat.

The health of the ecosystem and great biodiversity in the Tatras is predominantly down to the conservation work being carried out there. One of the organisations operating in the area is the Slovak Wildlife Society (SWS) – a non-profit that focuses on the brown bear, grey wolf, and Eurasian lynx. Established in 1998, and now an active member of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Bear Specialist Group, the SWS’s work entails developing effective measures to reduce human-wildlife conflicts and fostering greater understanding and acceptance of native predators within the surrounding communities.

The increase in the number of brown bears in the area has naturally led to a rise in human-wildlife conflicts, with interactions occurring more frequently due to reasons such as poor storage of refuse. Rare cases in which bears display threatening behaviour are often sensationalised in the media, leading to a heightened sense of fear among the general public. The SWS responded to this situation by launching the B.E.A.R.S (Bear Education, Awareness, and Research in Slovakia) Project in 2003 (www.medvede.sk).

The B.E.A.R.S Project has been providing expert knowledge and assistance to locals in implementing non-lethal measures to prevent conflicts, including livestock-guarding dogs, electric fences, and bear-proof bins. Further, the scientific research carried out has provided authorities with a sound basis for effective management decisions, in addition to contributing information for educational purposes and awareness campaigns. In fact, the SWS has played a big role in introducing conservation to the community, helping to encourage children and young people to take an active interest in nature at “Bear Camps” and other outdoor activities, hosting photographic exhibitions, and organising seminars and workshops.

But the work of the SWS extends further than small community projects. Tourists venturing to this increasingly popular destination have the opportunity to book walking and biking tours where they can witness the bears and other wildlife amid the stunning scenery of the Carpathians.

Tourists are guided by locally based wildlife experts with decades of experience combining responsible ecotourism with conservation research. As specialists in large carnivores, the SWS guides provide guests with detailed insight into the lives of animals and the challenges they face. Visitors exploring the extensive forests, mountains, and meadows will learn about their ecology and the conflicts with human interests that threaten their long-term survival. Participants can even play an active role in conservation through helping with fieldwork, which includes measuring and recording the tracks of bears, wolves, and lynx; collecting samples for genetic analysis; and monitoring animals with trail cameras. 

Tours typically last six hours and cost €90 (around 2,300Kč) per person (based on two people booking a one-day tour together). The fees go directly to fund conservation and support the SWS’s continued efforts to protect wildlife and habitats from the growing pressures of development. It is the belief of the SWS that sustainable tourism can help demonstrate to local communities the value of the natural environment around them. These efforts, combined with their intensive education work, can help change the negative perception of bears and wolves from being animals that should be feared and reviled to being animals that local people can be proud of and want to preserve.

Sustainable tourism is all the rage these days, and for good reason. The industry has committed to making a smaller impact on the environment and local culture and ensuring that development is a positive experience for surrounding communities, tourist companies, and tourists themselves. By planning a trip to the nearby Tatras and booking wildlife tours with conservation groups such as the SWS, not only can you enjoy an unforgettable vacation in glorious settings, but you’ll also be doing your own small part to help conserve some of the flora and fauna that make the natural world so wondrous.

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Wildlife of the Tatras National Park

Photo by Uryadnikov Sergey / Adobe Stock

European Brown Bear (Ursus arctos arctos)

Diet: Bears are omnivorous, meaning they eat a wide variety of foods – from grass, fruit, insects, roots and bulbs of plants to carrion.

Population: Around 130 in the Tatras National Park and surrounding areas (approximately 1,500 in Slovakia).

Life Expectancy: Maximum 30 years in the wild.

Size (adult): Height 70-150cm (at shoulder) / Weight 80-350kg

The European brown bear is one of the most common subspecies of brown bear and can be found across much of Eurasia. Large territories and a secretive lifestyle make it hard to determine their exact number, but there are estimated to be around 1,500 individuals distributed mostly across the central and northern mountains of Slovakia. Besides females with young, they usually lead a solitary life, but sometimes gather to feed at seasonally abundant food sources such as fruit trees. Bears start hibernating around November and are inactive from December to February or March, so now might be your last chance to see them this year.

Photo by Dennis / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Wolf (Canis lupus lupus)

Diet: Predominantly red deer, roe deer, and wild boar. Occasionally also prey on livestock.

Population: Around 50 individuals in the Liptov region.

Life Expectancy: On average 6-8 years. Maximum 13 years.

Size (adult): Height 80-85cm / Weight 36-45kg

Native to Europe and the forest and steppe zones of the former Soviet Union, the Eurasian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf, which can also be found in North America. The population of Eurasian wolves in Slovakia is estimated at around 400 individuals, with many of the packs forced to subsist largely on livestock and refuse in areas with dense human activity. They are a highly social animal whose basic social structure consists of a mated pair and their adult offspring. Packs are typically made up of a family of five to 11 animals, but large packs with numbers exceeding 40 wolves have been recorded in some parts of the world.

Photo by JUAN CARLOS MUNOZ / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Lynx (Lynx lynx)

Diet: Mostly roe deer and brown hares, but may also take chamois, foxes, rodents, and birds. 

Population: Around 15-20 in the Tatras.

Life Expectancy: Up to 14 years

Size (adult): Height 70cm / Weight 18-30kg

The Eurasian lynx is a widely distributed medium-sized wild cat that inhabits forests up to an altitude of 5,500m in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Its range also extends to Central Asia and Siberia, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas. With an estimated global population of 10,000, approximately 200-300 Eurasian lynx prowl the mixed forests of Central and East Slovakia. These stealthy felines are incredibly secretive and their quiet nature has caused their presence in an area to go unnoticed by humans for years. 

Photo by WildMedia / Adobe Stock

Tatra Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra tatrica)

Diet: Mainly grass, herbs, and leaves in summer, plus sprouts and bark of trees as well as lichens in winter.

Population: 1,300-1,400

Life Expectancy: Up to 15-17 years

Size (adult): Height 70-80cm / Weight 25-45kg

The critically endangered Tatra chamois is a subspecies of Alpine chamois and inhabits all parts of the Tatras. They are protected by the national parks in both Poland and Slovakia. From 1999-2000, populations of these slender bovids dropped below 200 individuals, but a five-year programme initiated in 2001 to save them has since seen the species recover. Today, the population stands between 1,300 and 1,400 individuals, which are the highest numbers of Tatra chamois in recorded history. They tend to frequent alpine meadows, cliffs, and boulder fields above the treeline at 1,700m.

How to Be a Responsible Wildlife Tourist

I'm often left frustrated by the plethora of images cropping up on social media that display clear acts of animal abuse and exploitation. With the inception of the "selfie" era, many find the opportunity to pose with captive animals too alluring.

It begs the question, do people understand the magnitude of suffering inflicted in order to support some of these wildlife attractions? I have many friends who have participated in unethical wildlife tourism. I know them to be sensible, emotionally intelligent and compassionate people, so I'm frequently left bewildered by the lack of thought and judgement that ensues when engaging in such cruel activities.

To avoid confusion, most animal rights activists consider any animal excluding dogs or cats to be undomesticated. Birds unquestionably don't belong in cages, and common pets like rodents, reptiles and fish would surely prefer a life of freedom over the confinements we increasingly impose upon them.

It has been scientifically proven that many animals - not just limited to primates and other large mammals - exhibit traits similar to that of humans. Some are considered to be highly sentient, demonstrating familiar characteristics including self-awareness, self-consciousness, and even empathy. Many species have also been well documented for their capacity to form highly complex social structures. In fact, most, if not all animals that are pressed into service for the "entertainment" of humans possess these exceptional cognitive abilities.

Contrary to apparent belief, a four-tonne Asian elephant would rather spend time foraging with its family in the rainforest than trudge around each day with tourists strapped to its back. Lion and tiger mothers prefer not to be parted with their one-month old cubs for the sake of tourists receiving a few extra Facebook likes.

Practicing responsible wildlife tourism is actually quite easy. All you have to do is ask yourself one simple question. Given the choice, is it likely that the animal would comply with the activity? If the answer is yes, you are probably petting a dog or cat. If the answer is no, then ask yourself if the short-lived experience and social media attention is worth the animal's lifetime of suffering.

As an animal enthusiast and professionally certified safari guide, I can assure you that nothing trumps a purely authentic encounter with wildlife. Observing animals where they belong is a far more rewarding experience, not least because they are behaving and interacting with their environment as nature intended them to.

The following are among the cruellest, yet most popular wildlife attractions one must avoid to consider themselves a responsible tourist.

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Elephant Riding

As young as four years old, infant elephants are separated from their mothers to undergo a severe, almost humiliating taming process. The young calf is confined into a small space and held tightly in place using constricting ropes and chains. The procedure involves physical torture including poking and prodding with sharp implements such as knives, bullhooks, and bamboo sticks with nails embedded in the end. Other methods include food, water, and sleep deprivation. The elephant must endure this until the persecutor senses that it has become submissive enough to work with humans.

Almost all domesticated elephants – whether rode whilst trekking, performing tricks or street begging – must endure this gruelling ritual. It’s an unpleasant reality unbeknown to the majority of tourists who arrive in countries such as Thailand, India, and Malaysia. 

The elephants may seem at peace, but that's only because their spirit has been broken. When given a break from their arduous duties, their physical and psychological wellbeing is further crushed by unfavourable living conditions and limited social interactions with one another.

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Lion Walking

Lion cubs are purposefully bred for this growing industry and are typically taken away from their highly distressed mothers within a month of birth.

Most walking with lions experiences are available to tourists holidaying in South Africa. Visitors can also expect to handle young cubs for hours on end, with the opportunity to pose with them for souvenir snaps. Many providers encourage their clients to smack the cubs if they display aggressive or any other form of unwanted behaviour.

When they become too old to tame, the lions face either a miserable lifetime in captivity or they are handed over to the canned hunting industry. For those who are unaware, canned hunting is similar to trophy hunting, only the victim is barbarically confined into a smaller area to ensure 100% kill rates.

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Tiger Selfies

Thankfully, this industry has recently been exposed for the vile practices that ensued at Tiger Temple in Thailand.

Many of these centres misleadingly pose as wildlife sanctuaries, but have been discovered covertly acting as tiger farms. Large profits are made from illegally selling tigers or tiger parts used in traditional Chinese medicine or as status symbols.

Similar to the walking with lions industry, tiger cubs are parted from their mothers and reluctantly made to pose with tourists for "selfies". It is widely believed that many, if not all tigers are heavily sedated to reduce risks of attack, and any animals acting unfavourably are often disciplined with physical assault.

If that weren't enough, the animals are constricted by short chains or confined in very small enclosures with hard concrete floors.

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Dolphinariums

Another highly unethical industry that has been exposed mostly thanks to the incredible animal rights documentary, Blackfish.

Millions of tourists flock to destinations like Sea World and Discovery Cove each year. Most are entirely unaware of the abuse inflicted on these highly intelligent and socially complex creatures.

The animals are often captured from the wild where they are chased down by boats and then hauled on board. The stress induced by this traumatic event is often too much for the animals to endure, and consequently they perish during transit to their intended destinations.

Those selected to be kept in dolphinariums are subjected to a lifetime of suffering. The area in which they have to swim is barely larger than a swimming pool, which is far smaller than their natural sea environment. Furthermore, the pools where they are held captive are regularly treated with chlorine which can lead to painful skin problems and eye irritations. Other health concerns include sunburn and stress-related illnesses including heart attacks and gastric ulcers.

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Zoos

In an animal activists ideal world, all wild creatures would be left to live happily in the natural environments they have evolved perfectly well to survive in.

Zoos are a topic of hot debate which I will be writing a future article on. To be brief, some zoos are what I'd call "tolerable", with others being outright evil.

A "tolerable" zoo is one that serves more as a non-profit educational sanctuary. They exhibit vulnerable and endangered species which serve as ambassadors to help promote and support conservation. I use the word "tolerable" because these animals can still suffer from relentless boredom, loneliness, and in some cases, "zoochosis".

If you've ever been to a zoo, wildlife park, or drive-through safari, you may have noticed animals rocking, swaying, or pacing endlessly. Some may even resort to self-abuse, chewing on their own body parts and removing fur or feathers. These are classic signs of "zoochosis" which is caused by the deprivation of diversity and freedom endured whilst living in zoos.

Bad zoos exist entirely for profit. They are located mostly in poorer countries, with animals often kept in tiny enclosures with horrendous conditions. They'll often be terribly malnourished and have contracted diseases or other illnesses that go untreated to limit costs.

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Bullfighting

The cruelty administered in this "sport" is merciless and in a so-called civilised age, culture is absolutely no excuse. Every year, thousands of bulls are brutally slaughtered to the cheers of olé in arenas spanning across Spain and South America.

From the very moment the bull enters the ring, they don't stand a chance. Even before the fight they may be weakened by savage beatings. Some will even have petroleum jelly rubbed into their eyes in order to impair their vision.

Typically, when the animals enter the ring they are approached by picadors (men on horses) who drive lances into the bull's back and neck muscles. The banderilleros then enter on foot and proceed to plunge banderillas (brightly coloured sticks with harpoons on their ends) into the bull's back. Finally, the matador appears and tries to kill the disorientated animal with a sword following a few exhausted charges.

The animals rarely receive a clean death, resulting in further mutilation and suffering. If the matador is unsuccessful, an executioner is called in to stab the bull through the spinal cord, and, eventually to death. Even this stroke can be blundered, however, leaving the bull conscious but paralysed as he is chained by the horns and dragged unceremoniously away from the arena.

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Rodeo

Countless animals have lost their lives to this "sport". Calf roping, bull riding, steer wrestling, and bronc riding make rodeos nothing more than western-themed cowboy circuses.

Cattle and horses are often zapped with electric shots to encourage them to bolt out from the chute. Young calves' necks are frequently twisted and even broken as they're violently clotheslined and body slammed into the ground.

Fatal injuries including heart attacks, broken bones, and aneurysms are all fairly commonplace, and those who live to see another day are afforded little time to rest or recuperate. They are then hauled off to the next event and repeatedly forced to participate against their will.

When animals are considered too old or worn for rodeo, their next stop is nearly always a one-way trip to the slaughterhouse.

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Horse-drawn Carriages

Commonplace in many busy cities including New York, Paris, and Prague, the horse-drawn carriage is just another cruel yet popular tourist attraction that seems to have gone under the radar.

Despite their intimidating size, horses are very sensitive and skittish animals. They are forced to dodge traffic and road accidents have occurred in almost every city in which horse-drawn carriages operate.

With exhaust fumes polluting the city, respiratory ailments aren't out of the ordinary, and debilitating leg problems are often suffered on account of the hard surfaces they're made to toil.

Furthermore, horses are made to pull oversized loads in all manner of weather extremes, and have even been witnessed dropping dead due to heatstroke.

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Others Wildlife Attractions to Avoid:

• Street Begging and Entertainment

• Photo Props

• Snake Charmers

• Bear Parks

• Crocodile Farms

• Sea Turtle Handling

• Circuses

• Racing

• Civet Coffee Plantations

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Always remember to conduct research and use responsible and trusted tour operators. Never support the use of animals for photographic props and avoid any venues that display captive animals or offer exotic animals on the menu. Lastly, be wary of any attraction where animals exhibit humanised behaviour such as dancing, painting, or other tricks. There are so many ways in which to enjoy wildlife, including safaris, scuba diving, trekking, and much more!