The Tatra Bears

This article was originally published in Oko! Magazine

Think of wildlife tourism, and what is the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps you picture yourself on safari watching a herd of trumpeting elephants march across the open savannas of the Serengeti. Maybe trekking through the dense forests of the Amazon basin in hopes of spotting the highly elusive jaguar is more your cup of tea. Whatever and wherever you imagine, it probably doesn’t belong on this continent. In the Czech Republic, we tend to believe that the greatest wildernesses and creatures are half a world away. So it may come as a surprise to learn that Europe is actually home to some of the most fascinating animals to roam the planet, with some species inhabiting places located practically on our doorstep. 

Travel to Bodø or Tromsø in northern Norway and you’ll have the opportunity to witness an incredible variety of marine life, including orcas, sperm whales, humpbacks, porpoises, and even the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, the blue whale. Head southwest to the Andalusia region of Spain and you might spot ibex and flamingos, or perhaps even be lucky enough to catch a rare glimpse of one of the world’s rarest cats, the Iberian lynx.

But a little closer to home lies a real gem. The Tatras (specifically the High Tatras) occupied the top spot on Lonely Planet’s list of ten essential European destinations for 2019. Situated around 550km east of Prague, the almost mythical landscape comprises a towering realm of jagged peaks and tumbling waterfalls, with a spectacular array of flora adorning the rugged terrain and formidable beasts, including the iconic European brown bear, roaming the fertile forests.

By the end of the 20th century, hunting, deforestation and human-wildlife conflicts had caused brown bear populations to disappear from much of their original range in Europe. Conservation efforts succeeded in halting the decline and in some parts of the continent, bear populations are now recovering. Slovakia has become somewhat of a stronghold, hosting a growing population of around 1,500 bears, with around 130 residing in the Tatras National Park. This has led to a boom in wildlife tourism in the Tatras and now, spotting brown bears in their natural habitat has never been easier. Visitors also frequently observe other native species, including wild boar, deer, marmots, and the endemic and critically endangered Tatra chamois. Those with good fortune may even observe the elusive wolf, lynx, or wildcat.

The health of the ecosystem and great biodiversity in the Tatras is predominantly down to the conservation work being carried out there. One of the organisations operating in the area is the Slovak Wildlife Society (SWS) – a non-profit that focuses on the brown bear, grey wolf, and Eurasian lynx. Established in 1998, and now an active member of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Bear Specialist Group, the SWS’s work entails developing effective measures to reduce human-wildlife conflicts and fostering greater understanding and acceptance of native predators within the surrounding communities.

The increase in the number of brown bears in the area has naturally led to a rise in human-wildlife conflicts, with interactions occurring more frequently due to reasons such as poor storage of refuse. Rare cases in which bears display threatening behaviour are often sensationalised in the media, leading to a heightened sense of fear among the general public. The SWS responded to this situation by launching the B.E.A.R.S (Bear Education, Awareness, and Research in Slovakia) Project in 2003 (www.medvede.sk).

The B.E.A.R.S Project has been providing expert knowledge and assistance to locals in implementing non-lethal measures to prevent conflicts, including livestock-guarding dogs, electric fences, and bear-proof bins. Further, the scientific research carried out has provided authorities with a sound basis for effective management decisions, in addition to contributing information for educational purposes and awareness campaigns. In fact, the SWS has played a big role in introducing conservation to the community, helping to encourage children and young people to take an active interest in nature at “Bear Camps” and other outdoor activities, hosting photographic exhibitions, and organising seminars and workshops.

But the work of the SWS extends further than small community projects. Tourists venturing to this increasingly popular destination have the opportunity to book walking and biking tours where they can witness the bears and other wildlife amid the stunning scenery of the Carpathians.

Tourists are guided by locally based wildlife experts with decades of experience combining responsible ecotourism with conservation research. As specialists in large carnivores, the SWS guides provide guests with detailed insight into the lives of animals and the challenges they face. Visitors exploring the extensive forests, mountains, and meadows will learn about their ecology and the conflicts with human interests that threaten their long-term survival. Participants can even play an active role in conservation through helping with fieldwork, which includes measuring and recording the tracks of bears, wolves, and lynx; collecting samples for genetic analysis; and monitoring animals with trail cameras. 

Tours typically last six hours and cost €90 (around 2,300Kč) per person (based on two people booking a one-day tour together). The fees go directly to fund conservation and support the SWS’s continued efforts to protect wildlife and habitats from the growing pressures of development. It is the belief of the SWS that sustainable tourism can help demonstrate to local communities the value of the natural environment around them. These efforts, combined with their intensive education work, can help change the negative perception of bears and wolves from being animals that should be feared and reviled to being animals that local people can be proud of and want to preserve.

Sustainable tourism is all the rage these days, and for good reason. The industry has committed to making a smaller impact on the environment and local culture and ensuring that development is a positive experience for surrounding communities, tourist companies, and tourists themselves. By planning a trip to the nearby Tatras and booking wildlife tours with conservation groups such as the SWS, not only can you enjoy an unforgettable vacation in glorious settings, but you’ll also be doing your own small part to help conserve some of the flora and fauna that make the natural world so wondrous.

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Wildlife of the Tatras National Park

Photo by Uryadnikov Sergey / Adobe Stock

European Brown Bear (Ursus arctos arctos)

Diet: Bears are omnivorous, meaning they eat a wide variety of foods – from grass, fruit, insects, roots and bulbs of plants to carrion.

Population: Around 130 in the Tatras National Park and surrounding areas (approximately 1,500 in Slovakia).

Life Expectancy: Maximum 30 years in the wild.

Size (adult): Height 70-150cm (at shoulder) / Weight 80-350kg

The European brown bear is one of the most common subspecies of brown bear and can be found across much of Eurasia. Large territories and a secretive lifestyle make it hard to determine their exact number, but there are estimated to be around 1,500 individuals distributed mostly across the central and northern mountains of Slovakia. Besides females with young, they usually lead a solitary life, but sometimes gather to feed at seasonally abundant food sources such as fruit trees. Bears start hibernating around November and are inactive from December to February or March, so now might be your last chance to see them this year.

Photo by Dennis / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Wolf (Canis lupus lupus)

Diet: Predominantly red deer, roe deer, and wild boar. Occasionally also prey on livestock.

Population: Around 50 individuals in the Liptov region.

Life Expectancy: On average 6-8 years. Maximum 13 years.

Size (adult): Height 80-85cm / Weight 36-45kg

Native to Europe and the forest and steppe zones of the former Soviet Union, the Eurasian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf, which can also be found in North America. The population of Eurasian wolves in Slovakia is estimated at around 400 individuals, with many of the packs forced to subsist largely on livestock and refuse in areas with dense human activity. They are a highly social animal whose basic social structure consists of a mated pair and their adult offspring. Packs are typically made up of a family of five to 11 animals, but large packs with numbers exceeding 40 wolves have been recorded in some parts of the world.

Photo by JUAN CARLOS MUNOZ / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Lynx (Lynx lynx)

Diet: Mostly roe deer and brown hares, but may also take chamois, foxes, rodents, and birds. 

Population: Around 15-20 in the Tatras.

Life Expectancy: Up to 14 years

Size (adult): Height 70cm / Weight 18-30kg

The Eurasian lynx is a widely distributed medium-sized wild cat that inhabits forests up to an altitude of 5,500m in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Its range also extends to Central Asia and Siberia, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas. With an estimated global population of 10,000, approximately 200-300 Eurasian lynx prowl the mixed forests of Central and East Slovakia. These stealthy felines are incredibly secretive and their quiet nature has caused their presence in an area to go unnoticed by humans for years. 

Photo by WildMedia / Adobe Stock

Tatra Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra tatrica)

Diet: Mainly grass, herbs, and leaves in summer, plus sprouts and bark of trees as well as lichens in winter.

Population: 1,300-1,400

Life Expectancy: Up to 15-17 years

Size (adult): Height 70-80cm / Weight 25-45kg

The critically endangered Tatra chamois is a subspecies of Alpine chamois and inhabits all parts of the Tatras. They are protected by the national parks in both Poland and Slovakia. From 1999-2000, populations of these slender bovids dropped below 200 individuals, but a five-year programme initiated in 2001 to save them has since seen the species recover. Today, the population stands between 1,300 and 1,400 individuals, which are the highest numbers of Tatra chamois in recorded history. They tend to frequent alpine meadows, cliffs, and boulder fields above the treeline at 1,700m.

(The Real) Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them - Cetaceans

This article was originally published by Youth Time Magazine

Today is National Dolphin Day! With some of the world’s most iconic shark species covered in the previous edition of (The Real) Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them, this week we stay submerged in the watery ecosystems of this world and learn about another large family of aquatic animals – the cetaceans!

Comprised of a number of well-known families, including whales, dolphins and porpoises, the cetaceans are a group of widely distributed marine mammals. Around 89 species are divided into two groups including the Odontoceti, or toothed whales, and the Mysticetior, or baleen whales. Below, we take a deeper look at the most famous of them all and discover tips on where to best witness them in their natural environment.

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Blue Whale

We’ll begin with arguably the most famous of all the whales – the Blue Whale. Not just the biggest of all cetaceans, but claiming the title of largest animal ever to inhabit our planet, the Blue Whale can reach enormous lengths of up to 30 metres and grow to weights of up to 180 tonnes! Due to commercial whaling, their numbers depleted significantly throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, but their population has steadily increased since being protected worldwide from 1966. The IUCN estimates the Blue Whale population at between 10,000 – 25,000 individuals - with the greatest number residing in Antarctica before whaling began. For excellent chances of observing these colossal beasts, head to Mirissa in Sri Lanka.

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Sperm Whale

Reaching lengths of up to 20.5 meters, the Sperm Whale is the largest of the toothed whales and is considered to be the biggest true predator in the world today. A pelagic mammal, they have a worldwide ranges and will migrate seasonally for breeding and feeding purposes. Other impressive facts about these gigantic cetaceans include having the largest brain of all animals and being the second deepest diving mammal, second only to the Cuvier’s beaked whale. The species was once considered vulnerable to extinction as they were a prime target of the whaling industry for their spermaceti oil which was used for oil lamps, candles and lubricants. Their worldwide numbers are now estimated at anywhere from 200,000 to 1,500,000 individuals. Visit Iceland between May and August for the best chances of witnessing the gentle giants.

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Humpback Whale

Most famous for their trademark breaches and other distinctive surface behaviors, Humpbacks are one of the most widely observed species during whale watching tours worldwide. Like the blue, fin, and right whales, Humpbacks are a species of baleen whale that feed mostly upon plankton and small crustaceans. They inhabit all major oceans with four global populations found in the North Pacific, Indian, Southern, and Atlantic Oceans. There are believed to be 30,000 – 40,000 Humpback Whales left in the world, making up around 30% of their original population. Saguenay – St. Lawrence Marine Park in Québec is a great place for Humpback Whale watching tours, but if you want to get a little closer and try swimming with them then head to Silver Bank in the Dominican Republic.

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Southern Right Whale

One of three species classified as right whales (along with the North Atlantic Right Whale and North Pacific Right Whale), the Southern Right Whale is the most abundant in the family with up to 10,000 individuals roaming the waters of the southern hemisphere. They are one of the whale species that are highly active on the water surface and demonstrate a natural curiosity toward human vessels making the Southern Right Whale one of the most popular of all species during whale watching tours. Hermanus in South Africa is known as the mecca for spotting Southern Right Whales, an area which they migrate toward during the winter months between June and October

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Fin Whale

The second largest of all the cetaceans and animal species in general is the Fin Whale. They can be found in all the major oceans, with the highest population density occurring in cool and temperate waters. With an estimated 100,000 individuals left, they have been listed as an endangered species by IUCN. Despite the International Whaling Commission (IWC) issuing a moratorium on commercial hunting of the Fin Whale along with many other whale species, they are still often hunted in Iceland and Japan, which has contributed to their slower recovery rates. Regular encounters with Fin Whales occur on whale watching tours across the globe. They can be encountered year-round in the Southern California Bight and be seen inshore from June to February in southern Ireland.

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Narwhal

Nicknamed the “Unicorn of the sea”, the legendary Narwhal is a pale-colored porpoise with a distinctive spiraled ivory tusk and can be found only in Arctic coastal waters and rivers. Though females do sometimes grow a small tusk of their own, it is the male’s which grow the most prominent – reaching lengths of up to 8.8 feet. The purpose of the tusk eludes scientists to this day, but common theories include its use to impress females and to battle rival suitors. Narwhals typically travel in groups of 15-20, but gatherings of hundreds and in some cases, several thousands have been reported. Divided into around 12 subpopulations, Narwhals are thought to number at around 50,000 – 170,000 individuals. To spot them in their natural environment, head to Arctic Bay- a Hamlet in Baffin Island, Canada.

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Beluga

Also known as melonhead or sea canary (due to its high-pitched twitter), the Beluga is closely related to the previously listed narwhal. With an all-white coloration and an echolocation organ situated within the protuberance at the front of its head, the Beluga is well adapted to life in the Arctic. Male Belugas can grow up to 18 feet long, making their body size somewhere between that of a dolphin’s and a true whale’s. They occur broadly in Arctic and Subarctic waters using a diverse range of habitats. The Beluga population is estimated at around 200,000 individuals, divided into 21 separate populations. Churchill, a town located on Hudson Bay in Canada is a popular hotspot for viewing and even swimming with Beluga.

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Orca

More commonly known as the killer whale and often referred to as “Wolves of the seas”, Orca are one of the most distinctive of all cetaceans. Despite their name, they belong to the oceanic dolphin family, of which they are the largest member. Orcas are considered the most cosmopolitan of all cetaceans, inhabiting a wide variety of marine environments from Polar Regions to tropical seas. A highly social species, they are well documented for their sophisticated hunting techniques and vocal behaviors. In fact, their behaviors differ greatly between groups and are passed on through generations, leading scientists to describe the phenomenon as a manifestation of animal culture. Due to the likelihood that two or more Orca types can be considered separate species, the IUCN lists the species conservation status as data deficient. Caleta Valdes, Punta Delgada and Punta Norte in Patagonia, Argentina are among the few places in the world to witness the particular Orcas which approach the shore to hunt seals. For more reliable viewings, however, head to the lively village of Grundarfjörður in Iceland.

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Amazon River Dolphin

The only freshwater species on this list, the Amazon River Dolphin or Boto can be found swimming through the Amazon River Basin of Brazil, Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia and the Orinoco River Basin of Colombia and Venezuela. Due to limited amount of information on population numbers and trends, in addition to little knowledge on threats and ecology, the Amazon River Dolphin’s conservation status is listed as data deficient by IUCN. These pink-colored cetaceans are one of just five dolphins that make their homes in the rivers of this world. The friendly and highly social Amazon River Dolphin is also considered the most intelligent of the river dwelling cetaceans, with a brain capacity 40% larger than that of humans. Population estimates are highly unreliable for this species, but a good place to see them in larger numbers is the Pañacocha Lagoon in the vicinity of the Yasuni National Park, Ecuador.

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Common Bottlenose Dolphin

The most familiar of all dolphin species, the Common Bottlenose Dolphin is the largest of all the beaked dolphins and number at around 600,000 individuals worldwide. Absent only from the icy polar waters of the Arctic and Antarctica, they mostly inhabit temperate and tropical oceans throughout the world. They typically lives in pods numbering around 15 individuals, but have been observed swimming together in groups of over 100, and occasionally 1000 animals in what are known as super pods. Monkey Mia, located on the west coast of Australia is known as one of the most reliable places to observe Common Bottlenose Dolphins in their natural habitat. In fact, the friendly pod are well-known for visiting the beach on a daily basis where they regularly interact with humans.

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All photos by Shutterstock/Graphics by Leigh Woods

Into the Mist

Trekking with the critically endangered mountain gorilla in Rwanda

During the past 18 months, I have been on an incredible journey throughout the Asian and African continents that has included many wonderful encounters with wildlife. From experiencing my first safari to diving with great white sharks, I have been very lucky. One might think that such a lifestyle would eventually grow wearisome, however, my desire to witness wild animals in their natural habitat grows stronger with every experience. Fortunately, I was able to further indulge my passion when I relocated to the small east African country of Rwanda last December. Aptly named “The land of a thousand hills”, Rwanda boasts a wide array of flora and fauna to be marvelled at. It is best-known among wildlife enthusiasts and conservationists for its high concentration of colourful birds and endangered primates.

Since moving to Rwanda, I have taken advantage of the many wildlife watching opportunities that this great land has to offer, visiting Akagera National Park and also travelling to the beautiful Nyungwe Forest to trek chimpanzees. There really is no other way to observe such spectacular animals than in their natural environment, as their behaviour and interactions with one another are in stark contrast to that when behind bars in a zoo. They were both truly amazing days that I will never forget. However, the magnitude of these experiences was overwhelmingly dwarfed by that of last weekend’s gorilla trekking.

Rwanda is one of three countries that are home to the critically endangered mountain gorilla. Surprisingly, it was as late as 1902 when these graceful beasts were first discovered by scientists, and since that day, mountain gorilla populations have been under serious threat of extinction. Poaching, habitat loss, disease and warfare have all contributed toward their decline and in 1981, it was estimated that as little as 254 mountain gorillas remained. Perhaps most horrifying of all, silverbacks were killed for their heads and hands which were sold to collectors. In addition, many protective parents were killed when their babies were taken away to be exhibited in zoos all over the world. Thankfully, recent years have seen large conservation efforts which have helped to ensure that these creatures have not become mere museum memories. It is now believed that there are at least 880 individuals wandering the hills of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

A large contributing factor toward the recovery of the mountain gorilla population has been through ecotourism. Wildlife enthusiasts from all corners of the globe travel to eastern Africa to witness the glorious spectacle of the great apes roaming freely in their natural habitat. Visitors must book permits weeks in advance, as the number of people allowed to view the gorillas each day is very limited. Encounters with our primate cousins are also restricted to a single one-hour session per day, and so the $750 fee per permit may seem astronomical to some. In hindsight, I cannot put into words how insignificant the cost turned out to be.

I left the comforts of my hotel room at around six o’clock on a misty Sunday morning and shortly after I arrived at the base camp where I was to learn which gorilla family I would be trekking. My guide announced that we had been assigned to the Ntambara (fighters) group – a band of 16 individuals. I met with the six other trekkers who had been assigned to the same group and we all briefly introduced ourselves to one another. Soon after, we excitedly jumped into a jeep and headed off toward the foot of the mountain of which the Ntambara group were located. Around half an hour later we arrived at our destination, climbed out of the jeep and began our ascent up into the mist.

During the relatively effortless hike toward the national park, we made a few stops where our guide taught us about some of the flora in the area. It was interesting to learn about the local vegetation and it helped to make the 45 minutes it took to reach the border of the national park go by quickly. Before crossing through the park’s perimeter, our guide gave us instructions on how to behave when we came across the gorillas and ways in which to react to different situations that may occur. Shortly after, he received confirmation on his two-way radio that the trackers had located the Ntambara group. They continuously updated him on the location of the gorillas and it became clear to all in the group that he knew exactly how far they were positioned from us. My fellow trekkers and I were keen to learn how long we would be hiking before we found the gorillas to which our guide teasingly responded “less than five hours”.

As we climbed over the cobblestone wall which separated the surrounding farmland from the forest, it became very apparent that this was going to be an arduous trek. It had rained continuously throughout the past few days and we all found ourselves ankle deep in the thick sodden soil. We hiked for around half an hour on the main trail before we met with one of the trackers and veered off onto a completely new route. I began to grow excited as it became obvious that we were in close proximity to the Ntambara group.

We continued through the thick lush green forest for around 15 minutes before happening upon two other trackers who instructed us to stop. Within seconds I heard a noise that sounded very similar to that of bongo drums and instantly I recognised that it was the sound of a gorilla beating its chest. I could feel my eyes growing wider and an adrenaline rush like I had never felt before as the realisation set in that we were about to be acquainted with one of the greatest animals to roam the planet.

As we approached the area from which we had heard the chest-beating, a large and imposing silverback emerged from a nearby bush and slowly moved his way toward us. Members of our group began frantically throwing themselves off the trail to allow him the space to pass through. I had not imagined that I could have been within a metre or so of a wild animal with such immense power and lived to tell the tale. As he unhurriedly distanced himself from us, everybody breathed a sigh of relief as if they had believed that a strictly herbivorous creature had recently acquired a taste for human flesh. We continued on to discover more members of the Ntambara group which included two females, a juvenile and an even larger Silverback feeding in a small opening.

We spent the next hour almost entirely in silence as we observed the gorillas moving in all directions around us. As we gradually moved our way around the tranquil forest, we managed to locate other members of the Ntambara group including a few amusing adolescents. Unoriginal as it may be, though, the toddler provided the most enjoyment for me personally. Before encountering the gorillas we had been instructed that should any of the infants approach us, we should make every effort to back away in order to ensure that no complications would arise with their extremely protective parents. One of the hardest things I’ve ever had to do was distance myself from the juvenile that seemed intrigued by a fellow trekker and I. Nevertheless, I felt incredibly privileged to have been within a few feet of the curious little chap.

The enhanced elation I felt in contrast to my previous encounters with wildlife was undoubtedly down to the fact that I had spent less time behind the camera lens and more time simply observing. From previous experiences I have learnt that photographs are no substitution for enjoying the moment as it happens.

I honestly cannot find the words to express the wonder of sharing a short moment in time alongside such immensely powerful and magnificently intelligent animals. Magical perhaps, but the only way that one can really understand the euphoria surrounding even the briefest encounter with such glorious beings is to experience it for themselves.